Halifax, Nova Scotia
"From the Sea, Wealth" - Local Motto
Biting cold wind fresh off the Atlantic, midnight gulls and a deep appreciation for the Sea have carved a totem of toughness and fortitude in the Halifax psyche. Something seems to happen to the collective mindset when your homeland is known for tragedy, explosions and piracy. The grey blanket of weather and the ever-present cry of gulls recall something ancient and deadly and this is exactly what is good and real about Halifax. This dark and deep coastal town has a sacred rawness to it. The stories that form the history of halifax are not fun, they are not kind, but they represent the past of a collective group of people who are both.
Within these pages are some of our favorite vistas, parks and watering holes, some are iconic and some overlooked, all of them are locally owned and worth a damn. The above guide is a list of curiosities and artifacts intended to enhance your experience, or maybe its just a place to start. Follow our itinerary, or not, either way be adventurous, look around and put thought + care into your time here. You are on someone else’s land, you are a guest, act like it.
EAT
This list is hand-picked and curated from a combination of top ten lists and recommendations from the locals. All experienced first hand, so if it's a pricey spot it's worth the money and if it's not, it's worth the walk. But always remember, "good food and good eating are about risk" - A. Bourdain.
Bicycle Thief: Classic halifax. Go for happy hour unless you want to throw down some serious cash. Order the chowder. No regrets!
Brothers: The most delicious $3 premade sandwich you will ever have. Pick one up while you are in the North end and carry it around with you until you need it. It's a safety sandwich.
Stubborn goat: I was skeptical of this “gastro pub” but dammit they won me over by having amazing fucking pizza. Not too pricey if you split the pizza.
Dairy bar: Giant soft serve cones in flavors like creme brûlée brioche. We are obsessed with the simple perfection that emanates from its order window. This counts as a meal btw
Highwayman: this place will set you back but it’s absolutely worth it and a great way to end an adventure packed day. The decor will knock your socks off.
Stillwell Beer Garden: Really solid mini meals, think soft pretzels and corn on the cob. Save room for dairy bar next door.
EDNA: This is the place everyone in Halifax goes for brunch. Keep that in mind when you hit snooze again you lazy bum!
Bud the Spud: The chip wagon that predates possibly every other mobile food merchant in the country. Cheap, delicious, locally sourced fish+chips. BAM
DRINK
Propeller Brewing company: So so good and very pretty. The brewmaster himself came up with a random beer he was working on and we drank it together and talked about it. I have never felt more interested in the beer process
Bad Robot: I would make a trip to Halifax just to attend one of their movie nights and I would do terrible things to be a regular here. Delicious, affordable food and craft beer AND they donate to good causes. Heartbeat emoiji.
The Seahorse Tavern: This place is everything we could want in a tavern: local food, cheap drinks + a phenomenal selection of live music. I look at seahorses’ calendar when I want to discover a great new band.
Noble: Underground speakeasy in the basement of middlespoon. A new password issued every thursday you can find it by subscribing to the hidden page on their website. It's worth the effort.
The Old Triangle Pub: Historic building, live music all the time, drunk friendly locals. Perfect first night pub to set the pace for your adventure. Full stop.
Henry House: Drink a rum old fashioned in an ancient stone house. To feel extra fancy go for a cocktail In the Drawing Room upstairs it’s only open from 6pm to midnight, Friday and Saturday so plan ahead.
The Nook: Cozy coffee shop that also serves booze. They host bands from out of town from time to time who will impress you more than you would expect. Such a special hidden Nook (heh!).
Weird Harbour Coffee: The whole space is like a designers wet dream and they make one hell of a cappuccino.
EXPLORE
The Waterfront: Walk the waterfront (ughh, because you should): Packed with tourists pale and fresh from their (visible) cruise ship, stumbling like drunken toddlers toward wherever the closest beavertail is. Beware "historic" breweries, I promise you the local Haligonians do not drink at the waterfront. Look for drunken light posts, hammocks, and a mostly alright farmers market, and any working fishing boats (talk to those guys for the real Halifax shit).
Hilltop Citadel: Canada's most visited national historic site (really? I mean I guess it’s cool) the huge and arguably spooky Citadel is a star-shaped fort atop Halifax's central hill. Construction began in 1749 with the founding of Halifax. I wonder how it affects the locals to have an omnipresent military fort looming above them. Do you just get use to it or is it a constant reminder that this land once belonged to someone else? The clock is beautiful though...
Halifax public gardens: A beautiful Victorian-era garden occupying an endless city block, open May to October. There are ponds, fountains, flowers, ducks, geese, a café and sometimes live music in the gazebo. This friends is how city parks should be done, bravo to you Richard Power. Also the Stillwell beer garden and Dairy Bar are across the street, add a gram of newly legal Island sweet skunk and you've got yourself an adventure/romance summer in the city.
SUPPORT
Plan B: This is the best fucking thrift store possible of all time. I will return with a bigger suitcase and when I do that stuffed goose will be mine. Also the woven fishing basket.
Lost + Found Vintage: A super cool mix of locally made and vintage pieces. We bought a bathing suit here that we love but we stole this photo from the internet, sorry/ not sorry.
Make New: This place is like your cool big sister's closet, somehow things you would normally ignore become treasure once they are colorblocked. We supported the fuck out of this place.
Made in the Maritimes: Local crafts and homegoods of the highest quality. Basically the kind of decor you would expect from the hard working sea-going people of Halifax.
SLEEP
Pick an AirBnb near the North end of town. You want to be stumbling distance from the Seahorse Tavern. Here's a few winners.
